Princess Seams Refresher

by Anne from AnnesVintagePatterns

Ava loves everything Princess. My great-niece has seen all the Princess movies, loves books with Princess stories, and she has a wardrobe of Princess attire to rival Kate’s.  Oh, and did I mention she is 5 years old?  When she is older and begins learning to sew (plan afoot to encourage and help with this activity),  I’ll bet she won’t have a clue what it means when she sees a pattern describing princess seams.

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Princess seams are long, shaped seams sewn into clothing to add contouring or to tailor the fit to closely follow a woman's figure.  The princess seam style of dress needs no waistline, since it does its shaping without darts, by joining edges of different curvature.  The resulting princess seams typically goes from the shoulder (or under the arm) and curves gently over the bust point and down to the lower hem.  When princess seams are used on the front of a garment, they run over the line of the bust to create an even, smooth look.  This creates a slimming look, often seen in dresses with an A-line silhouette.  Many form fitting garments, such as formal gowns, are made with this type of seaming.  On slender women, princess seams can be used to highlight the figure and provide the illusion of curves. Princess seams emphasize a thin waist for women with hourglass figures.  Princess seams can be adjusted for fluffier women like me to fit an ample bosom and hips.

Here are some PatternPatter team members’ patterns featuring princess seams.

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Do you enjoy sewing with princess seams?

Plastron Anyone?

By Anne from AnnesVintagePatterns

I guess you really can teach an old dog a new trick. I have been sewing for over 45 years, and never once did I run across the word “plastron”.  How I avoided it all these years I’ll never know.

Here are some definitions in case you are not familiar with plastrons either.

1. A metal breastplate worn under a coat of mail.

2. A quilted pad worn by fencers to protect the torso and side.

3. A trimming on the front of a bodice.

4. The front of a man's dress shirt.

5. The front panel of the tunic of a uniform, usually of a different color than the rest.

6. Zoology The ventral part of the shell of a turtle or tortoise.

I guess I always called a plastron on a pattern by other words…..bib, smock, apron…you get the picture. Here are some of my PatternPatter team members’ patterns with a plastron. Try saying THAT quickly 3 times in a row!

Green Plastron from TheBeetlesNeedles

White Plastron from PatternShop

Oooh a Leopard Plastron from RosesPatternTreasury

 Classy White Plastron GreyDogVintage

Sweet Tulip Plastron from allthepreciousthings

Plaid Plastron from Revvie1

Art Deco Style

I can imagine my Grandma in this lovely frock, Pattern Style No. 3455. It was produced in 1928, when my Grandma was 28. She was born in 1900 and grew up in New York City, where fashion is King. 

Capper's Weekly 3455 art deco flapper dress pattern by Capper Publications, New York City 1928 is for a Ladies and Misses Dress with a fabulous zig zag diagonal front closing. It features a collarless open neck, and set-in sleeves slashed up from the lower edges and the slashed edges are bound. There is a plaited inset at right side of the three-piece skirt that is attached to waist under a removable belt. Inset pocket at left side. Width at lower edge of skirt, size 36, about 1 5/8 yards. It says that it fits a Misses Size 18 years (Did they go by years back then?), Bust 36 inches, with 39 inch hips.

Here is an archived copy of the pattern and the Fashion article as it appeared in the September 25, 1928, Lowell Sun Newspaper. 

This is the article:

Fashion’s Forecast by Annabel Worthington

Clever zig zag outline at front with one-sided kilted plaits give smart accent to street dress showing simple good taste. It is extremely fashionable made of sheer woolen. Printed crepe satin, jersey, flat silk, crepe, plain crepe satin, georgette crepe, silk pique, wool crepe, printed velvet and plain sheer velvet also appropriate and chic for Style No. 3455. Pattern can be had in sizes 16, 15 years, 36, 38, 40, 42, and 44 inches bust measure and requires only 3 ⅛ yards of 40 inch material for the 36-inch size. Price 15 cents in stamps or coin (coin preferred). Our patterns are made  by the leading fashion designers of New York City and are guaranteed to fit perfectly. Every reader should send for a copy of our new Fashion magazine because it contains all the most attractive styles for autumn. In addition to six illustrated articles of great value to the woman who sews, showing how any pattern may be altered and also the correct way to fit sleeves, finish slashes and other difficult steps in dressmaking. The edition is limited so send 10 cents for your copy today. For Patterns (15¢) and Fashion books (10¢) address the Fashion Dept.-Lowell Sun.

My name is Anne White, and am a retired Grandma who likes vintage everything (Guess I better since I am vintage too!). I enjoy quilting, going to estate sales, being with my family, especially my 6 year old Grandson, and of course finding Fabulous patterns.

If you like vintage treasures of all kinds, check out my Etsy shops: 

AnnesAccumulations

AnnesVintagePatterns

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