Showing posts with label Pattern Patter. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pattern Patter. Show all posts

Sunday, September 25, 2016

Let's Add Links To The Vintage Sewing Patterns Wikia: A Tutorial For Beginners



So, you want to know how to add links to the Vintage Sewing Patterns Wikia, but it seems kind of complicated!  Not to worry, I can help.  It's not as scary as it seems.

Let me give you a simple tutorial on adding your pattern link to the Wikia.

First, of course you have to go to the Vintage Sewing Patterns Wiki at http://vintagepatterns.wikia.com/wiki/Main_Page or by clicking HERE.

NOTE: These are instructions when using the CHROME browser.  I don't know if all of these will work in other browsers, but it should be just about the same.

It's probably a good idea to have the pattern you want to add opened in one tab, and the Wikia opened in another.  Then you can easily flip back and forth between them.

Next, you want to find the pattern to which you want to add your link.




In this case, I was looking for Vogue 1015, a pattern designed by Bill Blass.  If a pattern is already in the database, it will pop up.  You can highlight either the Vogue 1015 or Vogue 1015 A and hit "Enter,"  Make sure you use the search bar on the main Wikia homepage.




In this case, Vogue_1015 was the correct pattern I was looking for.  But if it wasn't, you can add an "underscore" plus "A" to the end of the address and hit "Enter" again to look at the next entry in the Wikia.



This is me hypothetically typing the "_A" to check the next Wiki article.  But since it was the correct entry on the first try, we don't have to do that.



So, now we'll scroll down to add our link!



See that little "Edit" next to "Sources/Vendors"?  Click there. :)



Now in this case, some people have already added links.  That's good, because it's easier for you.  Put your cursor at the end of the last link, and hit "Enter."  This will give you a new line with a new block next to it.



Now, you want to click on that funny looking button up there.  That's the "Add Link" button.



This new window will pop up.  It looks kind of scary, but don't be afraid.  You can do this!

Where it says "Target page or URL" you copy/paste the link to the pattern in your shop.

Where it says "Text to display" you type the name of your shop.

Then you need to hit "OK" to save it.




Now, if you want to add a size next to the name of your shop... you can do that now.   Don't add it as part of the link, write it after you've added the link.   Then when you're done, make sure you hit "PUBLISH" to save it.

THAT'S IT!!!

So, we looked at what to do if links are already there.. but what if they aren't?  Don't worry, it's not much different.



See, no links!  What should you do?  Well, click the edit button just like last time.




This time, we're going to edit in "Source Mode"  This is the better way to edit Wikia.  Click the "Source" button.




This time, you're going to type in your link manually.

-  First, type an asterisk.
-  Next, type a left bracket like this:  [
-  Then, copy/paste the link to your listing.
-  Then, type one space
-  Then, type the name of your shop
-  Then, type the right bracket like this: ]

Then, you can hit publish.  If you want, before publishing, you can switch back to visual mode by clicking the "Visual" button to check to make sure everything looks okay.

Either way, make sure you hit "PUBLISH" or it won't save.

And that's all!!!!

Later, we'll talk about adding a whole new pattern listing to Wikia.  It's a bit more complicated but we'll give it a go, right? :)

Sunday, August 9, 2015

Dressing the Stars




Costume designer Edith Head (1897-1981) secured her legacy as Hollywood's best-known costume designer when she received the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Science nomination for best Costume Design for the movie Airport '77.  Head worked on more than 1,100 films, received 35 Oscar nominations, and took home eight awards.

In 1923, she was hired by Paramount Studios as a sketch designer, some say using another's sketches. By1938, Head had become that studio's chief costume designer, a position she held until 1967, when she moved to Universal Pictures.

Her first Oscar nomination came in 1949, for the 1948 film The Emperor Waltz, starring Joan Fontaine and Bing Crosby.  Head's first Oscar win came in 1950 for her work in The Heiress, starring Olivia de Haviland.

via pinterest.com


Her trademark "sunglasses" were in fact not sunglasses, but blue lensed glasses.  Using such a lens was common practice during the days of black and white movies. This gave the costumer a sense of what the color would look like on-screen. Head took this one step further and had glasses made to save herself straining to see through just a single lens.

Her career was not without controversy.  For the film Sabrina (1955 winner), Givenchy designed many of the clothes worn by Audrey Hepburn, but was uncredited.  At that time, Givenchy worked for Edith Head. When the Oscar-winning costume designer was announced, Edith Head accepted the statue without mentioning Givenchy's work.  Hepburn was appalled by the snub to her friend, and vowed she would not allow that to happen again. In 1961, Givenchy designed a Little Black Dress for the opening scene of Breakfast at Tiffany's. His original version showed most of Hepburn's leg, and the studio vetoed the dress.  Edith Head, still head designer, reworked the skirt and filled it with horsehair and lead weights to make it fall the way she wanted.  In this case, however, Givenchy was credited with the design and Head as "costume supervisor."







pictures via pinterest.com

In addition to The Heiress, Edith Head won Academy Awards for the following films:
All About Eve 


Bette Davis, Marilyn Monroe, George Sanders
photo via allposters.com

Samson and Delilah 




Hedy Lamar
via fanpix.net



A Place in the Sun



Elizabeth Taylor
fashion.telegraph.co.uk


Roman Holiday



www.britannica.com
photo by Paramount Pictures


picture via featherbyfeather.com


Sabrina


via sensefunnel.com
(some sources say this dress is a Givenchy design)


The Facts of Life


sketch for Lucille Ball,
The Facts of Life
via pinterest.com



The Sting


via behind-the-seens.com


 Many classic films list as Edith Head as Costume Designer:  Rear Window, Vertigo, The Birds, To Catch a Thief,  Sweet Charity, Notorious, Rooster CogburnButch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, and White Christmas.  She is credited as the designer who put Dorothy Lamour in a sarong.

Below are a few of Head's costumes from the above mentioned films.

 via fineartamerica.com


 via pinterest.com



 Dorothy Lamour in The Hurricane, 1937
Silver Screen Collection



Grace Kelly - To Catch a Thief
via dotsilicon.com


 Katherine Hepburn in Rooster Cogburn
via nymag.com


Ingrid Bergman and Cary Grant in Notorious
photo from Archive Photos/Getty Images 



Kim Novak in Vertigo
pinterest.com


Rosemary Clooney and Vera-Ellen in White Christmas
edelweisspatterns.com

from tvtropes.org


 
 Tippi Hedren in the The Birds
www.ew.com


Shirley McClaine in Sweet Charity
journalsinclassicfilm.com



Grace Kelly in Rear Window
clothesonfilm.com


Upon winning her last Oscar for The Sting, her acceptance speech was brief: "Just imagine dressing the two handsomest men in the world and getting this.  I simply couldn't be more happy or more grateful."

Once asked who was her personal favorite actress to dress, she replied, "Grace Kelly.  She is a charming lady, a most gifted actress, and, to me, a valued friend."

Despite all her accolades and Oscars, the project of which she was most proud occurred in the late 1970s, when she designed a woman's uniform for the U. S. Coast Guard. The growing number of women in the military resulted in a need for suitable uniforms.  For this, Head received the Meritorious Public Service Award.

picture from 4yourinformation.files.wordpress.com


Here are some lovely patterns designed by Edith Head offered by members of the Pattern Patter Team on etsy.com.


Advance 8048 from  SelvedgeShop
Advance 8049 from FloradoraPresents
Advance 9296 from ErikawithaK
Prominent Designer A895 SoVintageOnEtsy


Vogue 1560 from allthepreciousthings
Vogue2040 from GreyDogVintage
Vogue 2041 from mbchills
Vogue 2220 from CloesCloset

by kinseysue on etsy


References:
biography.com
IMDb.com
fashion.allwomens.talk.com
classiq.me







































Tuesday, January 20, 2015

Focus On: Dickeys and Vestees

By Sherri, SewBettyand Dot

Do you crack up or cringe when you hear the word "dickey"? It's one of those fashion items that one doesn't hear much about these days: the dickey seems to have (mostly) fallen out of favor (except with Howard Wolowitz on The Big Bang Theory--he's a big fan!).

Historically, dickeys--defined as a false shirt front, or "detachable bosom" (really!)--were items worn by men: laundering garments was expensive (and difficult--no Maytags) in the 19th century, so just as collars and cuffs were removable on everyday shirts, the dickey could be laundered as it was the most visible part of the shirt seen underneath a man's jacket (which was rarely removed outside of the privacy of one's home). The dickey was most often an element of a formal shirt, one worn under a tuxedo or other formal suit. In addition, many uniforms had dickey fronts--again, as a way to save on laundering costs: the bellboy or waiter presented a neat appearance but didn't have to wash the entire shirt beneath the jacket. With the invention of celluloid, an early form of plastic, dickeys went high-tech (for the time). These plastic shirt fronts were held in place either with straps at the back or via trouser tabs. (By the way, the etymology of the word is unclear: Wikipedia says it may come from rhyming Cockney slang: "dickey dirt" means "shirt"; I'm not sure if that's true, but I like it!).
Advertisement for a man's false shirt front or "dicky"/"dickey". From Wikipedia, courtesy of The New York Public Library. www.nypl.org
The dickey with which we are all probably most familiar in our own experience is the pullover turtleneck knit dickey, which is actually a  smart idea: it adds warmth at the neck and throat without adding bulk. From my own youth, though, there were some rather unattractive examples out there (purple acrylic mock turtleneck under a polyester printed shirt, anyone?). 

This is actually a free knitting pattern from FreeVintageKnitting.com; it is from Botany College Hand Knits, Vol. II (1958). 
In terms of women's garments, in the nineteenth century women began to wear chemisettes, or tuckers--these were lightweight (muslin, linen, lawn, lace) sort of half blouses (often tying at the sides) that covered the chest/bosom, both for modesty's sake and to alter the appearance of a dress at a time when people had far fewer clothes. The same dress could be worn in the evening without this item, and the dress would look very different. 

Four chemisettes in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art (metmuseum.org); courtesy the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Three are from the mid-nineteenth century; the one at lower left is from ca. 1925-1930.

These are really kind of dickeys, yes? In the twentieth century, these sorts of items--dickeys and vestees--were worn almost as accessories, as a way to add interest at the neck (and again, change the look of a garment) without adding the bulk of a blouse. They often had bow ties, embroidery, or collars (the peter pan collar was a favorite). Vestees are, as far as I can ascertain, slightly longer garments, and seem to have less ornamentation--but maybe not: perhaps a vestee and a dickey are one and the same for all intents and purposes (fashionista historians, please weigh in and let us know!).

Whatever you call it, there are a million ways to use one of these faux-fronts to change up your wardrobe; in fact, they are a great way to transition between the seasons.

Now let's look at some dickey/vestee patterns from member of the Pattern Patter Team on Etsy! It's interesting to note that in many cases the dickeys/vestees look like part of the dress--you have to look closely to see that a dickey is part of the pattern.
Top row, left to right: DuBarry 5800: Denisecraft

Top row, left to right: Simplicity 3611: AdeleBeeAnnPatterns


Top row, left to right: Vogue 3293: VintageNeedleFinds
 Simplicity 6434: SelvedgeShop

Whether it's a dickey or a vestee, which one of these lovely patterns would YOU don? Tell us in the comments!


Tuesday, August 19, 2014

Focus On: Children's Halloween Costumes

By Sherri from sewbettyanddot 

Summer is winding down and back-to-school is on everyone's minds. However, it's never too early to start thinking about Halloween (or, as it used to be spelled, "Hallowe'en")! 

Most scholars think Halloween stems from a pre-Christian Celtic festival called Samhain (pronounced Sah-ween), the significant holiday of the Celtic year. It was believed that around November 1 (the beginning of the new Celtic year), ghosts were able to mingle with the living—on that day the souls of people who had died during the year traveled into the otherworld. To help them on their journey, animals were sacrificed and fruits and vegetables were left out (traditions such as bobbing for apples and carving vegetables such as turnips and pumpkins into jack o’lanterns stem from this); bonfires were lit to assist the dead on their journey (and to keep them away from the living!). After the establishment of Christianity, the notion of a day (November 1) to honor souls became All Saints Day, so October 31 became All Hallows (Hallowed = Saintly) Eve (Hallow Evening = Hallowe’en = Halloween).

Halloween is a holiday of many mysterious customs, most of which can be traced back to the ancient Celtic day of the dead. Knocking on doors demanding treats (or threatening a “trick”/mischief) can be traced back to the original notion that ghosts, fairies, witches, and demons were wandering amongst us. Over time, people began to dress like these frightening creatures, disguising themselves to blend in and performing in exchange for refreshments. This is called mumming, and trick-or-treating as we know it developed from the practice. The first report of children “guising” (asking storekeepers for treats while in costumes) dates from 1911, but the term “trick-or-treating” doesn’t appear until the 1930s; it didn’t become the widespread activity we know today until after World War II.

Before the 1930s, the idea of fancy dress costumes for adults were popular for many different occasions, not just Halloween. The Dennison Manufacturing Co.—who made crepe paper and a zillion other paper products—published numerous booklets with instructions on how to make these costumes. Halloween began to become a more child-centric holiday in the late 1930s, and in 1937 the Ben Cooper Co. (Cooper made Ziegfeld Follies costumes before launching his business) began to manufacture children’s Halloween costumes and masks and sell them in stores such as Woolworth’s.
Black-and-white images are crepe paper costumes from various editions of Dennison booklets, "How to Make Paper Costumes,"' from my own collection (I am obsessed!); color image of Pictorial pattern courtesy Tuppence Ha'Penny blog

And of course, for decades, millions of parents have gotten out their sewing machines and made that perfect costume for their children (the earliest pattern I can find is a Pictorial witch costume from the 1920s, pictured above). Early costumes tended to be traditional witches, clowns, ghosts, and devils, but in the 1950s with the advent of TV, pop culture characters became popular. Dressing little kids up as animals has endured over the decades as well, and the princess/fairy/ballerina look is also alive and well. Costumes have seen controversy—especially those that are seen to appropriate cultural symbols or deal in stereotypes—but today Halloween is a bigger holiday than ever, in part because it has become one of the only occasions when adults dress in costumes.

Let’s look at some amazing vintage costume patterns from members of the Pattern Patter team. I’ve focused here on children’s costumes (for the most part). Interesting to note: the different incarnations of aliens/spacemen (the earliest on Etsy is Butterick 3352, from the 1950s, seen here in first collage, fourth row, second image). 

First row, left to right: Simplicity 1878: MidvaleCottage (1930s)
McCall 1507: Redcurlzs (1940s)
Third row: McCall’s 1855: FriskyScissors (1950s)
Fourth row: Butterick 6342: Denisecraft (1950s)

First row, left to right: McCall’s 7223: VogueVixens (1960s)
Second row: Simplicity 6201: GreyDogVintage (1960s)
Third row: Simplicity 9052: allfairyvintage (1970s)
Fourth row: Simplicity 9051: JFerrariDesigns (1970s)
Simplicity 6455: PurplePlaidPenguin (1970s)

Top row, left to right: Simplicity 7729: PengyPatterns

(All of the patterns in the third set are from the 1980s or later.)

Text sources: HalloweenHistory.org; LibraryOfCongress/Folklife; and Retroland.

Which costume would YOU make for the little one in your life (or which one did YOU wear when you went trick-or-treating?)? Tell us in the comments!