Wednesday, June 17, 2015

Pattern Cleaning & Repair, Part 1


Part 1 - Archival Cleaning Methods

One thing is for certain, all of us who collect, sew with, or sell vintage patterns... we all come across a lot of sewing patterns in really crummy condition.  Dirty, torn, smashed into envelopes... it's all part of the deal when you get into vintage sewing. 

Many times, you'd be tempted to give up on that poor-condition pattern, but don't lose hope!  Many patterns can be repaired and restored to nearly as good as new... you just have to know what products and procedures to use.

This can be an expensive process, but when you are giving life to a treasure, you'll find it's worth it.

So, today I present Part One of a series on pattern cleaning, restoration, and preservation.

A collection of archival supplies.
You should make a nice, clean area to do your pattern cleaning and repair.  A table with a cutting mat is my preference, but you could use almost any flat surface, just make sure it's clean.

Probably one of the most common things you find on patterns is writing.  If the writing is in pencil, you can use a good 'ol Magic Rub Eraser.  These are gentle on paper if you don't rub too hard, and should remove pencil cleanly with no problems.  Be sure to brush away the eraser crumbs with a nice big drafting brush or clean, soft, paintbrush.

A simple product, but so helpful, it's worthy of framing!
Many times however, you need more than just an eraser.  Sometimes, those patterns are really dirty.  What then can be done?  That's when you bring out the big guns. 

Magic in a jar, trust me.

First on the list is Absorene paper cleaner.  This wonderful product has been around for over 100 years!  Maybe some of you will remember it from cleaning wallpaper, maybe in your childhood?  It smells a lot like Play-Doh and is pretty and pink.  It's also one of the most economical and safe ways to clean a vintage pattern!

You can just ball it up and rub it right on the pattern.

This pattern may not look very dirty, but just grab a healthy hunk of that Absorene and see what happens.  Be sure to rub in -one direction- if you can.


Look at all that dirt!  This is totally non-abrasive and will not rub through or damage the paper.  What it WILL do is take off dirt that maybe you can't even see.  It will really brighten up a dingy envelope. 

 Again, brush away any crumbs with a soft brush of some type.  You can re-knead the crumbs back into the Absorene too, but it will eventually decrease in size with use.  A little jar of it goes a LONG way too.  It will also help absorb smoke and other musty odors.  (Though kitty litter works better.. but that's another article.)

Sometimes though, patterns are EVEN DIRTIER.  For those really dirty patterns, I recommend a product called Groom Stick... the official paper cleaner of HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN.

Groom Stick Packaging.

If you have a pattern with visible dirt or grime, Groom Stick is the way to go.  This stuff is amazing!  It is also useful for getting dirt and oils off your hands before working with delicate items.

Groom Stick out of the package.

To use it, break off a small piece and knead it with your hands.  (There are more detailed instructions with the actual product.)  Roll it into a ball or cigar shape and gently rub on the paper.

Groom Stick on a skewer.

You can also put some on a skewer or chopstick for more delicate touch.  It's totally non-abrasive, and can be re-used almost indefinitely.  Just keep kneading the dirt back into the groom stick!  Use it until it gets too dirty or sticky to continue to be gentle on your paper.

I don't have any examples right now of using it on a pattern, because at the moment I didn't have any patterns dirty enough to use it on!  (Lucky me?)  But trust me, if you see visible dirt or grime, this stuff is a MIRACLE WORKER.  It is gentle on the most fragile of paper, and if you work a lot with historic paper, I really can't recommend it enough.

So, where do you purchase these wonderful products?  Personally I suggest two different websites:

Gaylord Archival Supplies

Hollinger Metal Edge

You might be able to get them on other websites as well.  The sites above can assist you with many paper-cleaning issues.

Well, that's all for now!  If you have any questions, please leave them in the comments and I'll try to help the best I can.

Stay tuned for Part 2 where I'll give some tips on repairing torn patterns the archival way!

Also, be sure to visit all the wonderful shops of the Pattern Patter Team!

Monday, June 15, 2015

Sewing Tools - Make Them Work For YOU!





Part 1 - Cutting Tools
by Mary Beth RetroMonkeys

We all have our favorites when it comes to our tools for sewing. Some of us (you) are organized, some, like me, can't ever find anything! Below is a summary of some tools, their uses, and how to care for them. 

First - Sewing Shears - Protected from any uses other than fabric with threats of Mayhem!

Wow - the choices are almost endless! The type of cutting tools that you need will depend on what you are cutting as well as personal preference. 



 The Basic - Invest in a good pair of shears. If cared for properly, these will last a lifetime! Have them sharpened occasionally to keep them free of nicks.

Sewing Shears


  9" Dura Shears Fabric Scissors by Havels Sewing











Pinking Shears



Pinking shears - I don't personally use them very much. I have a basic serger to deal with my seams and I mainly sew with cottons that don't tend to fray. I have used them when sewing with linens and loosely woven wool. Anytime the fabric has a tendency to fray, pinking shears are in order! They were widely used prior to zig-zag stitching becoming available as well as sergers being made available to the home sewist. 





Thread Snips
Fiskars Soft Touch  Titanium Nitride Scissors


Gingher Knife Edge Thread Nippers
I chose to purchase the Fiskars soft touch scissors. I find them to be really versatile. I use them as thread snips, to nip small "v's", to rip stitches, as embroidery scissors, etc... The choices are endless! You can get a small pair that hangs on a chain around your neck or a pocket sized pair. The prices vary greatly too.

Embroidery Scissors


Silver Embroidery Scissors 4" 
Embroidery scissors are designed to snip close to the fabric. The blades are short and have very sharp points. The more precise the points and the fit, the better. The nicer ones can be pricey, like most scissors but again, it's worth it. 


Rotary Cutters

Fiskars Rotary Cutter 45mm 

I love rotary cutters! I have one hand that doesn't always do what it's told and for some reason that truly makes no sense, the rotary cutters are easier for me to control. I also love that they are so sharp that I don't have to use much pressure. The downside? The ongoing cost of the blades. Well I found a couple of ways to lessen that pain. First, a sharpener. I have one made by Dritz that works to make the blades last a bit longer. The other is - Harbor Freight Tools SOMETIMES carries packs of the blades labeled carpet cutting blades. A pack of 2 45 mm for $1.99!                    
Harbor Freight 45mm Blades                              Dritz Rotary Blade Sharpener
Olfa Gridded Cutting Mat












Rotary Mats


Think they are all the same? Wrong! There are two types - Self Healing and  Hard Surface. Hard Surface the blade doesn't penetrate the mat, self healing the blade does penetrate the mat and the material "heals" by reclosing the cut.

Professional grade mats are 3 mm thick vs crafter mats at 2 mm. Look for a mat in the largest size that your space can accommodate. Make sure the markings on the mat are the measurements that you prefer.

To keep that mat working well, store it flat! The mat will appreciate it and so will you every time you use it. Keep it clean with a spritz of mild household cleaner or a cloth dampened with soapy water. Just give it a good swipe to remove any embedded threads and debris.


Organize it! 

I found this great rotary cutter organizer on Nancysnotions.com


Created out of need - a great new product for any sewist using cutters. 


Scissor Storage Ideas
Great spacesaver! Drop scraps in the bin and store all of your tools in the outer pocket. 
Available at AllBrands












Desk organizers work well too! Scour your home for an unused one

Desk Organizer






That's it for now! I'll be back next week 
with Part 2!