FANCYWORK SELLER OF THE MONTH

Featured Seller: Fancywork

Hello, I'm Marjie. The snow is fluttering down here in Minnesota.  Last year we still had snow in May!  Living up here is a good excuse to have an extensive collection of vintage winter hats.  Hat patterns are my favorite kind of pattern to collect and sell right now.  They're hard to find and sought out.  I opened my Etsy store, Fancywork, in May of 2009. It’s evolution into a vintage pattern store happened gradually.  I started by selling vintage clothes and a few sewing patterns which sold quickly.  I found more patterns at a garage sale and my store began to take shape. 

I've always been a gleaner and have had hours of fun with friends rummaging through thrift stores. One year we gathered so many vintage 60's evening gowns that on New Year's Eve we had costume changes for each party we attended that night!  We brought suitcases and changed in the bathroom before we left for the next party.  We also had our hair done up circa 1966 by stylists who were old enough to remember how to do it right.  As time goes by it's getting harder and harder to find a fantastic vintage dress at a thrift store.  That's a good reason to learn to sew!

Vogue 5669 1940's

I'm in graduate school now as well as working as an art teacher.  Like most people, my life is much too busy.  Sewing is a way of slowing down and getting centered.  I find it can be meditative like making art.  I'm a    beginner seamstress and am gradually gaining courage to try more challenging sewing projects.  I often think of my sister when I sew.  I remember my older sister Rita sewing constantly when I was a little kid.  She had the foxiest teen wardrobe on the block.  She sewed passionately all of her life, making intricate quilts as well as clothes.  Rita passed away a few years ago.  For me being around sewing patterns is, in a small way, being with my sister.  

My mother showed me an old photo of her and my sister pointing out Rita's toddler bonnet and coat.  My Mom sewed the outfit out of my Dad's old Navy uniform.  That's such a sweet fact.  I'm glad she mentioned it to me.  It's cool to think that because sewing is becoming popular again, people might be sharing sweet sewing memories like this with their kids in the future.

All Fancywork patterns are 10 percent off this month with the coupon code: 10Fancywork

Focus On: Sleeves

By Sherri of Sew Betty and Dot

Let's look at sleeves!

Historically, they developed because, well, people's arms got cold AND as a way to cover the body for modesty's sake. Beginning in the medieval period, sleeves began to be incredible indicators of wealth and status--and of course, they were also incredible fashion statements. In fact, the history of sleeves is so varied and fascinating that it cannot be adequately covered in this blog post, so please see links at the end of this post to several blogs/websites that are a wealth of information.

Some random sleeve factoids:

* Beginning in about the 1620s sleeves began to change: the first change, a shortening of the sleeves to reveal a woman's wrists, marked the first time women's arms were visible in the hundreds of years of European costume history. (From www.fashionencyclopedia.com)

* Through the 17th century, sleeves were often a separate garment/accessory--i.e., not sewn into the dress/robe/gown but rather tied to the outer garment.
* Dolman sleeves were very popular in the 1930s, even in eveningwear, but a fabric shortage during World War II meant that the style fell out of fashion. 
* The most common sleeve variation over the centuries is the puff sleeve: they've been puffed at the shoulders, multiple puffs (see Queen Victoria's dress below), called "mameluke" or "marie" sleeves. There were puffs that needed special "puffers" worn inside them to stop them from drooping. In almost every century you can see fashionable women (and sometimes men!) wearing puff sleeves. The so-called Letty Lynton dress (from a 1932 film of the same name) designed by Adrian for Joan Crawford launched a craze for puffed sleeves in the thirties, and then there is Princess Diana's wedding dress!

Pattern Patter's own team member, Deb Salisbury of Mantua Makers, has some amazing historical patterns if you'd like to try to sew sleeves from another century! See the first square on the top left below.

Top left: Regency wedding dress pattern: Mantua Maker Patterns Top right: Mourning dress (once black, now faded) worn by Queen Victoria to her first Privy Council on 20 June 1837, the day she ascended to the throne (From persephonesunset.tumblr.com/post/8928107362)

Bottom left: Joan Crawford in Letty Lynton (1932), in a gown designed by Adrian. (image from Tumblr)
Bottom right: Princess Diana in her wedding dress (1981), designed by David and Elizabeth Emanual (image from Wikipedia)

Now let's look at some beautiful patterns with...sleeves!

(By the way, if you click on each photo, it will become larger so you can see all the gorgeous details.)

Children's dresses with puff sleeves (each row reads left to right):

Top 1. Weigel’s 1535: Bessie and Maeve; 2. Simplicity 7082: Roses Pattern Treasury
 3. Simplicity 4870:(this pattern also includes a puff sleeve doll dress!)
Middle: 1. McCall 1559: Midvale Cottage 2. Butterick 6919: We Are Vintage Sewing
3. Simplicity 4375: Pattern Playing
 Bottom: 1. Advance 2985: Pattern and Stitch; 2. Simplicity 3810: Pattern Shop

3. Simplicity 9090: People Packages

Puff sleeves for grown-ups--from the 1930s to Mary Quant and beyond!
(Each row reads left to right):

Top: 1. Hollywood 1815: Retro Monkeys;  2. McCall’s 8849: Yramski; 3.Advance 6154: Faithful Fabrics

Middle: 1. Advance 6054: Treazured Designz; 2. McCall 3037: Romas Maison; 
3. Simplicity 9164: Selvedge Shop

Bottom: 1. Butterick 5232: MB Chills (this is the Mary Quant); 2. Simplicity 3040: Cherry Corners; 
3. Simplicity 2317:

Sleeve styles galore!

(Each row reads left to right):
Top: 1. Capelet sleeves McCall’s 6108: Pattern Playing;2. Slit sleeve: Simplicity 8586: Paneen Jerez

3. Draped sleeve: McCall 4455: Déjà Vu Patterns

Middle:  1. Ruffled sleeve: Vogue 1355: MBChills

2. Full gathered short sleeve: Modes Royale D-69: DesignRewind Fashions

3. Butterfly sleeves: Butterick 9139: All the Precious Things

Bottom:  1. Raglan sleeve: Simplicity 1683: Pattern Matters

2. Leg o’mutton sleeve (also known as gigot sleeve): McCall’s 2341: Sew Betty and Dot

3. Notched cap sleeve: McCall’s 4947: Vienna’s Grace

And more more more--these show the variety in sleeve lengths.

(Each row reads left to right):

Top: 1. Bracelet length: Vogue 6316: Whatnot Gems

2. Elbow length: Simplicity 4254: Cherry Corners

3. Three-quarter length: Simplicity 4655: Historically Patterns

4. Long and full cuffed sleeve (this is Rudi Gernreich!): McCall’s N1045: Maddie Mod Patterns

Middle: 1. Cap sleeve: McCall 8469: Grandma Made with Love

2. Winged elbow-length and three-quarter sleeve: Butterick8277: Virtual Vintage

3. Batwing sleeves: Simplicity 8885: Sandritocat

Third Row:  1. Kimono: New York632: J Ferrari Designs

2. Dolman sleeves: Vogue 6549: Grey Dog Vintage

3. Off-the-shoulder cap sleeves with scallop: Butterick 7181:Em Sew Crazy

4. Jiffy dress with three sleeve variations--this is often seen in Jiffy designs: Simplicity 7124:Jeanies Shop

Bottom: 1. Long and cuffed ¾ length: Vogue 6246: Knight Cloth

2. Short, puffed, shirred sleeves: Simplicity 3282: FloradoraPresents

3. Short cuffed sleeve: Simplicity 3436: Sydcam123

Here are some great blogs/websites that show and tell about historical fashion (including the history of sleeves and some great photographs of vintage clothing showing sleeve styles:
Of course, COPA (Commercial Pattern Archive)
 and
Wearing History
Coletterie

 Fashion-Era.com
Such Eternal Delight

So: What do you have up your sleeve? Do you wear YOUR heart on your sleeve? Tell us in the comments! 

Tips for Dating Patterns: Zip Codes

By Ellen of KinseySue

When are antique/collectible dealers also historians? Daily! As caretakers of items from our past, we strive to provide customers with as much information as possible. Dating an object is important. I'm sure many members of the Pattern Patter Team are also vintage sellers/collectors. Knowing a bit of history helps us date an object.

For instance, Susie Seller has a Simplicity pattern listed which she describes as from the 70s. However, the last line of the address on the sleeve reads: New York 14, NY. Her pattern can not be from the 70s. Zip codes arrived in 1963. Before that, zones were used from 1943 to 1963. They were instituted during WWII because so many mail clerks had been drafted and zones made it easier for the new, inexperienced clerks to sort mail.

When Simplicity stopped placing the copyright date on the inside of their directions sheet, there was a gap of a few years before they started putting it on the pattern sleeve. They used a zone in their address. Since Susie Seller's pattern has no date on the directions, it is likely from the late 50s to early 60s, or nearly 20 years older than she thought.

Zip Codes = 1963 and later

Of course we rely on the design of the dress or whatever, as well as hairstyles, to help us date a pattern. Mail order patterns are more difficult to date: many don't have the year in the postmark. Knowing a bit about postmarks as well as zip codes can aid us in dating our mail order patterns.

Postmarks

Over the decades U.S. Postmarks have gone through many changes. Most are round, some are oval. The combination of letters and numbers hold the clue to the approximate date. I use Cemetarian’s Dating Guide to help me date my Mail Order patterns. She sells a PDF, "Dating Sewing Patterns" for $9.95 that covers all of the major pattern companies as well as mail order postmarks. 

As we beat the bushes for patterns, we come across other interesting items. Some dating information helps us decide if an object is as old as we think. A good rule to remember as we search: just because something is old does not make it valuable!

Items marked OCCUPIED JAPAN date from 1945 - 1952. I've seen buttons on the original card marked OJ. However, most OJ items are glassware, although I once sold a hanging wooden clothes dryer stamped Occupied Japan. I've also sold linens with a paper label which read MADE IN OCCUPIED JAPAN as well as sewing notions such as a tracing wheel and some sewing baskets.  

Items marked US ZONE GERMANY, BRITISH ZONE GERMANY, AND FRENCH ZONE GERMANY date from 1945 - 1950.  The buttons below are not marked - only the card.

Glassware/porcelain was the most predominantly exported item from the German Zones. These are the years Poland exported many of their collectible Christmas ornaments. After WWII, border changes left a number of German glass factories in Poland.

As Czechoslovakia ceased to be one country in 1993, glass/porcelain from there is desirable, particularly colorful Art Deco designs. Vintage jewelry is sometimes marked Czechoslovakia. NOTE - During the 1920s, Czecho-slovakia was spelled with a hyphen.

Items made during the 60s and 70s are increasingly popular so the following trivia may help someone~~

BRITISH HONG KONG was used from the 1950s - 60s. I've frequently found this tag on vintage clothing and purses.

HONG KONG was used from the 1970s - 90s.

Patent dates are useful in dating items. There are numerous charts on the net which list the year and the patent numbers associated with it. I refer to the following - it's easier on my vintage eyes:

www.oldstuffonly.com/patent_dates.asp

There are many other ways to date our treasures but I've found the above information to be the most helpful to me personally. I hope it also helps my Pattern Patter colleagues.

1950s Fridor Stitchmaster Merino

by Linda of AllThePreciousThings

I fell in love with this machine, as soon as I saw it on ebay. The clean lines, the “atomic style” shape, unlike any other machine I’d seen before.

 I bid, I bought, and for under $100 (including interstate postage), she was mine.

The machine comes in its own little suitcase, decked out with leather straps inside to hold the pedal, the extension table and a cute little bakelite box of attachments. I spent a day cleaning her (the suitcase was full of rat droppings), and enlisted my husband’s help with the mechanical and lubrication side of things. With the machine up and running, I’ve now had time to “play”, and have even made my first project on her – a gored linen skirt.

If, like me, “Fridor” is a name you haven’t yet encountered in the world of sewing machines, you’re not alone. There aren’t many to be had in Australia, and I think I was lucky to get this one. It was designed in Switzerland, and manufactured in Holland.

Like driving a European car, there are many features that I found to be the opposite of what I’m used to in Australia. To switch the light on, it must be flicked up (not down), the stitch length lever goes up for forward, and down for reverse, and the needle threads left to right (not front to back). I’m prepared to live with these little idiosyncrasies, however, because the machine has so many design features that I love. 

Removing the motor cover reveals that there are TWO belts driving the machine; probably the reason that the machine never seems to “stall”. The extension table is HUGE compared to other machines, giving a nice flat work area. The bobbin winder is on the side of the machine, and is simple to use. 

The motor is quiet, and runs smoothly. It’s a seriously good - looking machine – even the foot pedal is attractive!

Dropping the feed-dogs is as simple as flicking a lever.

For a simple, straight-stitching machine, it has quite an array of extra feet. So far, I’ve tested the narrow hemming foot (lovely results), 

but I have to say that the spring-loaded darning foot is my absolute favourite. It’s going to make free-motion quilting a real delight!

My machine has quite a few bumps and scratches, and the wooden base definitely needs repainting. The dilemma is this: do I leave her as is, and keep her “pure”, or do I strip her down, and re-paint with a glossy new coat of enamel in a fabulous colour…..peach? pink?……what about turquoise?

I’d love to hear your thoughts.

My First Experience with Lutterloh

Dip your toe into the vintage pattern world and a name that comes up in whispered awe is Lutterloh. (At least that's how it felt to me) Imagine my surprise when I realized I actually had a kit in my possession! In a recent pattern dilemma I decided to break it out and see if this system was all it's cracked up to be. I noticed a few things right off the bat.

1. No directions. You better know how to put a garment together cause all your getting is pictures of the finished piece.

2. No fabric recommendations other than the picture.

3. No yardage suggestions. Since you are drafting to your size and we're all uniquely proportioned people this makes sense but you better have some idea of how much fabric your design is going to take.

4. No seam allowances. If you use Burda you're probably already used to this. If not, remember to add them so you get the correct fit.

5. My Lutterloh is in metric. I'm an American. The rest of the world is good to go but for those of us in the US make sure you can convert your measurements into metric. Don't freak out if you triple in size. :)

So let's take a look. First you pull out a tape measure that looks nothing like any tape measure you've ever seen before.

 Then you stick a pin in the tiny hole next to either your Bust/Chest or Hip measurement depending on which article of clothing you are drafting. I think this is especially nice for those of us with differing tops and bottoms. You can draft the bodice section one size and the skirt section another, helping you achieve a better fit.

But wait! I'm getting ahead of myself! First you want to choose your design!! Feast your eyes on these beauties.

From the personal collection of All The Precious Things

1950s Supplement

The neat thing about this being a drafting system is that any design can be made for any person. Really like those kid's shorts? No problem! Using this magic tape measure everything will come out your size!

So, once you find your design you flip the little paper over and tada! You have your pattern pieces!

Front, shown on left side, shows the design. Back, shown on right,
gives you the pattern pieces to enlarge.

Here's a shot of the sleeve I drafted. I found it easiest to draw this on my cork board. First trace the tiny pattern piece then, pivot the tape, mark the dots, then play connect the dots and TaDa! You have a pattern piece. I'm warning you it gets a bit addicting!

Tracing of the tiny drawing in the middle of the actual size sleeve!

Have I piqued your interest yet? Now as amazing as the Lutterloh system is, it can be pricy to buy into, especially if you're not sure about it, which is why I'd like to introduce you to Embonpoint Vintage.....

Mens Smoking Jacket

1934 Dress

1956 Dress I love her pudding!

She has carefully cleaned and adjusted vintage patterns she has scavenged from old books that work on a similar drafting system. Better yet she offers them in Plus Size ranges so all of us can join in the fun! Her patterns come as a PDF file so there's no need to trace all those tiny diagrams, you can just reprint them! I'm in love with several items in her shop...

Lovely 1950s Dress

I really like these shorts! Remember you can draft to your size!

So how did my first garment turn out? Wonderfully! You can read all about it on my personal blog since there's not much vintage about it except the pattern...
This isn't a cure all though. If you usually have to do pattern alterations to get a good fit you will still have to do that. The nice thing is you are already drafting the pattern so you have plenty of paper to draw you changes on too. I still had to rotate the bust darts to get the correct fit on my top but it was much easier than working with a commercial pattern.

What do you think? Does it sound interesting? Have you ever tried Lutterloh or a similar drafting system?

Plastron Anyone?

By Anne from AnnesVintagePatterns

I guess you really can teach an old dog a new trick. I have been sewing for over 45 years, and never once did I run across the word “plastron”.  How I avoided it all these years I’ll never know.

Here are some definitions in case you are not familiar with plastrons either.

1. A metal breastplate worn under a coat of mail.

2. A quilted pad worn by fencers to protect the torso and side.

3. A trimming on the front of a bodice.

4. The front of a man's dress shirt.

5. The front panel of the tunic of a uniform, usually of a different color than the rest.

6. Zoology The ventral part of the shell of a turtle or tortoise.

I guess I always called a plastron on a pattern by other words…..bib, smock, apron…you get the picture. Here are some of my PatternPatter team members’ patterns with a plastron. Try saying THAT quickly 3 times in a row!

Green Plastron from TheBeetlesNeedles

White Plastron from PatternShop

Oooh a Leopard Plastron from RosesPatternTreasury

 Classy White Plastron GreyDogVintage

Sweet Tulip Plastron from allthepreciousthings

Plaid Plastron from Revvie1

Let's Promenade: A Brief Look at Prom Part 1

Let’s Promenade: A Brief Look at Prom and Prom Fashions in the United States (Part 1)

By Sherri from Sew Betty and Dot

As springtime blooms and buds turn into blossoms, so too do high schoolers’ thoughts turn to that age-old tradition: Prom (note that, strictly speaking, it’s “Prom,” not “the Prom.”). It’s time for girls to start shopping—or hopefully, SEWING—a beautiful and elaborate formal dress (so many gorgeous patterns from which to choose). 

But is a formal dance with tuxedo-clad boys and princess-gowned girls really a time-honored tradition here in the U.S.? How far back does the modern notion of Prom go? 

It is believed that the modern notion of a formal dance for unmarried young people has its roots in the debutante ball (from the French débutante, "female beginner"). In Great Britain, the presentation of débutantes to the King and Queen marked the start of the British social season of balls, tea parties, polo matches, and theatrical outings. Of course, all of these social gatherings had the added “bonus” of allowing the free—but  chaperoned—mixing of young men and women, with an eye towards suitable marriage prospects. Young women usually wore a white, ivory, or pink evening dress, usually with a train draped over the arm. Similar “coming-out” activities were adopted in the U.S. in the late 19^th and early 20^th centuries (in the South, cotillions served a similar function). The word “promenade” is tied to these social events: the young ladies and their escorts formally entered the room in a promenade.

Debutante summer evening gown by Jenny

Source: Courtesy Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division, George Grantham Bain Collection

But debutante balls and cotillions were for wealthier young adults, not middle-class teenagers (the notion of which as a specific, definable group did not really take hold until the 1940s; until then, children were considered to be simply mini adults). The first proms were likely held at universities and were far more low-key occasions, and the first high school proms were as well—until the 1930s, a prom was more of a tea dance where the dress code was “Sunday best.”

Butterick 3918, 1920s era day dress

Ladies Home Journal 5157, 1920s dress pattern

Butterick 5521, elegant 1930s frock

 Proms seem to first be mentioned in high school yearbooks in the 1930s, and by the late 1930s and 1940s they had evolved into a more formal occasion, an evening event where dancing was often preceded by a banquet. While the dress code was more formal than Sunday go-to-meeting clothes—floor length dresses were the norm—young teen-age girls would not have worn the slinky and glamorous gowns we often associate with that era (as seen on Hollywood starlets). And their escorts were never in tuxedos; they wore suits and ties.

Vogue 7999, 1930s long or short dress

Simplicity 3040, A pretty 1940s dress that might have graced the dance floor

Simplicity 4065, sweetly elegant dress for a prom, perhaps

As the U.S. entered World War II, it’s easy to imagine that a senior class dance might be especially poignant as a portion of the young men on the dance floor would have joined the armed forces or been drafted. 

Simplicity 2964, a formal dress from 1949 that looks toward the prom fashions of the 1950s

Snapshot of a group of teenagers ca. 1940s in their prom finery

Finally, a charming vintage instructional film from the 1940s about proper prom etiquette. Watch as poor Frank tries to figure out how to 
behave. 

In Part 2, we’ll take a look at how prom dresses changed in the second half of the twentieth century. 

Prom history and information from Wikipedia

  

Art Deco Style

I can imagine my Grandma in this lovely frock, Pattern Style No. 3455. It was produced in 1928, when my Grandma was 28. She was born in 1900 and grew up in New York City, where fashion is King. 

Capper's Weekly 3455 art deco flapper dress pattern by Capper Publications, New York City 1928 is for a Ladies and Misses Dress with a fabulous zig zag diagonal front closing. It features a collarless open neck, and set-in sleeves slashed up from the lower edges and the slashed edges are bound. There is a plaited inset at right side of the three-piece skirt that is attached to waist under a removable belt. Inset pocket at left side. Width at lower edge of skirt, size 36, about 1 5/8 yards. It says that it fits a Misses Size 18 years (Did they go by years back then?), Bust 36 inches, with 39 inch hips.

Here is an archived copy of the pattern and the Fashion article as it appeared in the September 25, 1928, Lowell Sun Newspaper. 

This is the article:

Fashion’s Forecast by Annabel Worthington

Clever zig zag outline at front with one-sided kilted plaits give smart accent to street dress showing simple good taste. It is extremely fashionable made of sheer woolen. Printed crepe satin, jersey, flat silk, crepe, plain crepe satin, georgette crepe, silk pique, wool crepe, printed velvet and plain sheer velvet also appropriate and chic for Style No. 3455. Pattern can be had in sizes 16, 15 years, 36, 38, 40, 42, and 44 inches bust measure and requires only 3 ⅛ yards of 40 inch material for the 36-inch size. Price 15 cents in stamps or coin (coin preferred). Our patterns are made  by the leading fashion designers of New York City and are guaranteed to fit perfectly. Every reader should send for a copy of our new Fashion magazine because it contains all the most attractive styles for autumn. In addition to six illustrated articles of great value to the woman who sews, showing how any pattern may be altered and also the correct way to fit sleeves, finish slashes and other difficult steps in dressmaking. The edition is limited so send 10 cents for your copy today. For Patterns (15¢) and Fashion books (10¢) address the Fashion Dept.-Lowell Sun.

My name is Anne White, and am a retired Grandma who likes vintage everything (Guess I better since I am vintage too!). I enjoy quilting, going to estate sales, being with my family, especially my 6 year old Grandson, and of course finding Fabulous patterns.

If you like vintage treasures of all kinds, check out my Etsy shops: 

AnnesAccumulations

AnnesVintagePatterns

OldPaperShop