The Elegance of Bill Blass

Indiana is not known as a hot bed of fashion yet produced one of the most legendary designers of the 20th century - Bill Blass.  Born in Ft. Wayne, IN, in 1922, he left home at age 17 to attend design school in New York City.  He served three years in the army during World War II. After his time in the armed forces, he joined the fashion house of Anna Miller in New York. When the company merged with Maurice Rentner in 1959, Blass became head designer. He bought the company in 1967, and in 1970, changed its name to Bill Blass, Ltd.

1960s Bill Blass dress for Maurice Rentner

photo from FuzzyLizzieVintageClothing

By this time, Bill Blass was a major designer.  He had become part of a high profile social scene which gave him insight into the way women needed to dress. In the 1980s, he was one of First Lady Nancy Reagan's favorite designers.

red evening gown designed by Bill Blass for First Lady Nancy Reagan in 1981, made of silk, chiffon, and silk taffeta. She wore it at the State Dinner honoring Zenko Suzuki, the Prime Minister of Japan.

photo from fashionwindows.net

First Lady Nancy Reagan in 1988 wearing a Bill Blass suit 

photo from wsj.com

 Candice Bergen in the July 1, 1970, issue of Vogue, wearing a Bill Blass gown

photo by Bert Stern

1970s Jergens ad, fashions by Bill Blass

from pinterest.com

Pink gingham dress and jacket

from Ricky Serbin Haute

A 1980s Bill Blass evening gown

photo from FuzzyLizzieVintageClothing

Dinner suit with feather trim
from MARLENE WETHERELL VINTAGE FASHION

Coat from WILLIAMVINTAGE

1970s Four-Piece silk ensemble: skirt, jacket, belt, peplum

from Thrifted & Modern

Vintage runway sample evening gown with train
from Brent Amerman

1980s Evening blouse and velvet skirt
from 20TH CENTURY COUTURE

Blass designed clothes which gave women a modern sense of both ease and comfort.  He made sportswear but with a twist - glamorizing the clothing with a new American casual chic sensibility.   His women's wear was beautifully cut, tailored and elegant and used luxurious combinations of fabric and texture.  In 1984, he designed Girl Scout uniforms which are highly sought after collectibles in their own right.

from FuzzyLizzieVintageClothing

Bill Blass was one of the first fashion designers to license his designs. Eventually, his brand encompassed fashion and fashion accessories such as eyewear, sheets, towels, jeans and luggage. 

He won seven Coty Awards and the 1999 Fashion Institute of Technology's Lifetime Achievement Award.  At the time of his death, he was involved in the preparation of a retrospective exhibit at Indiana University, Bloomington, IN.  This exhibit opened shortly after his passing in 2002.

by kinseysue on etsy

References: 
Indiana State Museum
Brittanica Online
Vintage Fashion Guild

For those of us who can not afford haute couture, there are lovely Bill Blass sewing patterns available.  Below are some offered by the Pattern Patter team on etsy.

Vogue 2735 from anne8865; Vogue 2643 from Mrsdepew; McCall's 8927 from FancyWork; Vogue 1788 from CloesCloset

Vogue 1957 from KeepsakesStudio; Vogue 2509 from RedcurlzsPatterns; McCall's 8416 from momandpopcultureshop; Vogue 1973 from SoVintageOnEtsy

Vogue 1308 from Denisecraft; McCall's N8753 from MaddieModPatterns; Vogue 1315 from midvalecottage; Vogue 2156 from allthepreciousthings

Vogue 1150 from Clutterina; Vogue 2662 from voguevixens; Vogue 2764 from BluetreeSewingStudio; Vogue 1621 from mbchills

Boomer Patterns

Simplicity Sewing Book from PengyPatterns

This article was spurred by a recent email conversation with a lady asking if I would purchase her mother's Simplicity patterns from the late 1960s to mid 1970s.  She seemed to have a difficult time understanding why I declined the offer. As I told her, I have more than enough patterns from that time period. This post in an explanation of the reasons for that situation.  

First and foremost is the fact there are more or less 38 to 40 million baby boomers (world-wide estimate from AARP) who were of high school and/or college age in the years from about 1968 - 1974.  We are the children of the Greatest Generation who survived the Depression and World War II. Our mothers learned to sew at an early age out of necessity.  After the war ended and families begun, these women sewed for their children, especially their daughters.

By the time we reached high school, many of us had a weekly ritual of visiting the fabric store and selecting a pattern and material with which to make it.  Simplicity patterns were our favorite. These patterns were fast and easy for our experienced seamstress mothers to sew and inexpensive to purchase.  Many boomers also sewed and could whip up a dress or outfit in a night or two.  We were well-dressed and possessed large wardrobes, yet we were often heard lamenting "I don't have anything to wear Friday night."

 

Simplicity ad found on pinterest

The mini-skirt retained its popularity. Look carefully at the collage below and you'll notice that some tops and tunics were not a great deal shorter than our dresses. Bell bottom pants grew even wider and  rode low on the waist.  Vests were popular and the more daring of us wore nothing beneath them when parents were not around. If worn alone, the vest usually closed with a hook and eye.  Swimsuits became skimpy (too skimpy, our mothers scolded). Some swimsuit patterns of this time are becoming more collectible due to scarcity, as mom probably vetoed the purchase. At the time, most of us thought the fashions were a perfect blend of mod and hippie styles. They were fun to make and wear, and unlike the clothes of our parents. 

There was a definite shift in style during the mid-to-late 1970s, coinciding with the years we graduated from high school and college. The second half of the 70s ushered in polyester pants suits, track suits, and jumpsuits for both men and women. Hemlines dropped, in part due to the fact so many of us entered the work force and needed to dress in a more professional and adult manner. Generally, patterns from the latter half of the decade are also abundant.

This brings us to the age-old balancing of supply and demand.  There are millions of female baby boomers who may have an estimated average of fifty to one hundred patterns each. This is based on the number of patterns my friends and I had while in high school and college.   There is far more supply than demand, even with the renewed interest in 1970s fashions.  Many of our mothers have passed away and the patterns sold, sending them to the marketplace. As boomers retire and down-size, even more of these patterns are becoming available.  After cleaning out her sewing room, a dear friend (also a boomer) gave me about 100 patterns which she made while in high school and college. Her kind gesture indicates how many patterns from this time are still available. A search of some of this era's patterns on etsy shows as many as twenty copies of certain patterns. 

This is not to say patterns from this time frame are not collectible or sought after, because they are.  However, the vast majority are not yet to the point where they are considered scarce, rare, or hard to find. 

When contemplating purchasing a pattern from this period, there are some things to keep in mind.  As the patterns were inexpensive, we would pick and choose which item of it we wanted.  For example, the vest from Pattern A, pants from Pattern B and top from Pattern C would comprise an outfit.  This is one reason so many patterns are found with only one article cut out.  There is a downside to this practice, however. Some moms threw away the pieces they didn't use.  Others, recalling the austerity of the Depression years, saved them, thinking perhaps the pieces would be needed someday.  Before buying any vintage pattern, ensuring that all pieces are present is important.

As we completed college and went out into the world, sewing our own clothes became too time consuming for many of us. Eventually, our mothers had grandchildren to sew for and the tradition continued.  Now we are the grandparents and sew for our grandchildren when they agree to it. Store-bought clothing seems to be what they want to wear.  Perhaps someday they will look back on their childhood and recall when grandma made them a special outfit.

by kinseysue on etsy 

Sources:

AARP website

Pinterest

Below is a sampling of  late 60s - mid 70s patterns available from the Pattern Patter team on etsy. Credits are below the collage.

ROW 1 - Simplicity 8830 from LagunaLane; McCall's 5888 from PeoplePackages; Simplicity 8208 from GreyDogVintage; Simplicity 8413 from sydcam123; Simplicity 8210 from kinseysue

ROW 2 - Simplicity 8779 from SewAsItWasPatterns; Simplicity 9597 from ErikawithaK; McCall's 3683 from PatternMemories; Simplicity 8512 from Clutterina; Simplicity 9574 from PengyPatterns

ROW 3 - Simplicity 6926 from RedcurlzsPatterns; Butterick 6706 from GrandmaMadeWithLove; Simplicity 5644 from sewbettyanddot; Simplicity 9800 from RebeccasVintageSalon; McCall's 4063 from RomasMaison

ROW 4 - Simplicity 9533 from PatternandStitch; Butterick 4821 from JeaniesShop; McCall's 4066 from Fancywork; Simplicity 6034 from PurplePlaidPenguin; Simplicity 9754 from CloesCloset

ROW 5 - McCall's 5453 from VogueVixens; Simplicity 9573 from allthepreciousthings; Simplicity 9630 from BluetreeSewing; Simplicity 6280 from Fragolina; Simplicity 9725 from allsfairyvintage

World War II Homefront Fashions

In 1942, the War Production Board, or WPD, implemented Limitation Order L-85 in the United States. Its purpose was to ensure that fabric and materials were ear-marked for military purposes. Included were restrictions on nylon, rubber, silk, leather and wool. It gave specific guidelines and measurements regarding new clothing. Pattern companies were affected, as new patterns issued after L-85 also had to conform to the guidelines.
Below is one section from Limitation Order L-85: Curtailment:

“(g) Curtailment on Women's, Misses' and Junior Misses' Daytime and Evening

Dresses. No person shall, after the effective date of this Order with respect to such

person, put into process or cause to be put into process by others for his account,

any cloth for the manufacture of, and no person shall sell, any: 

(1) Daytime Dresses, as follows: 

(i) with a separate jacket, redingote, coat, cape, or bolero to be sold with a one or

two piece dress at one unit price. 

(ii) with a separate or simulated jacket or top that is longer than 25 inches from the nape of the neck to the end of the finished jacket for size 16; other sizes varying in accordance with schedule B attached hereto. 

(iii) with a separate or attached hood, shawl, cape or scarf, 

(iv) exceeding 43 inches in length for size 16; other sizes in accordance with

schedule C attached hereto. 

(v) with a lining known as a bodice attached to skirt of a two piece dress. 

(vi) with a petticoat, overskirt or apron, 

(vii) with more than 78 inches of material other than wool cloth at its maximum

width or sweep, exclusive of seams, for size 16; other sizes in accordance with

schedule C attached hereto. 

(viii) with more than 72 inches of wool cloth weighing 9 oz. or less at its maximum

width or sweep, exclusive of seams, for size 16; other sizes in accordance with

schedule C attached hereto. 

(ix) made of wool cloth weighing more than 9 oz. per yard, containing at its

maximum width or sweep more than 64 inches of cloth, exclusive of seams, for size 16; other sizes in accordance with schedule E attached hereto, 

(x) with a separate or attached belt or sash exceeding 2 inches in width. 

(xi) with a three-quarter or full-length sleeve exceeding 14 inches in circumference at the bottom of the finished sleeve, for size 16; other sizes varying in accordance with schedule C attached hereto.” 

In addition to delineating the length of jackets and dresses, hem circumference, and width of waistbands and cuffs, it also specified the number of buttons (preferably plastic rather then metal) which could be used and the quantity of new leather shoes which could be purchased per year.  Many companies offered non-rationed shoes made of canvas and non-leather material. The wedge shoe and espadrilles became very popular during the war years due to rationing.  The wedge was originally created by Salvatore Ferragamo and used cork for the soles rather than leather.  

1940s shoe store ad for Salvatore Farragamo in "Novus" magazine

Layered cork and crocheted raffia wedge heeled sandals by Salvatore Ferragamo, 1942

Dress silhouettes became narrower and skirts shorter to comply with the new restrictions.  The intent was to eliminate waste and to conserve non-military use of fabric, machinery and manpower.  Women were encouraged to re-purpose old clothing and other materials in the making of new.  Feedsacks were popular sources for aprons, dresses, and children's play clothes. Women would trade with one another in order to obtain enough matching sacks to make an item.

Mending became a patriotic duty.  With their men serving in the military, many women re-made their husband's suits for their own use or to make children's clothing. Out-grown sweaters were unraveled and new items knitted or crocheted from the yarn. Fabric purses replaced leather. 

Double-breasted jackets gave way to single breasted for both men and women.  Shoulder pads for women emulated military uniforms.  Other restricted embellishments included pleats, ruffles, attached hoods and shawls, full skirts, and balloon, dolman, or leg-o-mutton sleeves. Women were encouraged to wear neck scarves beneath their suit jackets rather than blouses to save fabric.  Since new metal zippers were unavailable, wrap skirts were introduced.

Women began donning cuff-less pants and working in factories. The width of the pant leg was also restricted by L-85.  Turbans, home crocheted snoods, and scarves were part of this uniform to prevent accidents arising from long hair getting caught in machinery.

Clothing exemptions were allowed in specific instances.  Bridal gowns, maternity clothes, and religious vestments were not restricted.

To conserve money, hair was grown long.  Recycling hair pins and metal combs was done by all women on the homefront. Veronica Lake's long, wavy hair caught the attention of the public and women easily re-created the same style using their saved bobby pins or fabric curlers made from scraps.

One unforeseen effect of L-85 was the way Hollywood and the fashion industry capitalized on abbreviated clothing. Citing "morale building" as well as saving fabric, film stars and starlets were shown wearing shorts, playsuits, midriff tops, and swimsuits.  The two-piece swimsuit quickly gained popularity.

The most popular pin-up of World War II - Betty Grable photograph by Frank Powolney

Lana Turner in THE POSTMAN ALWAYS RINGS TWICE

released in 1946

image from avsforum.com

set of four World War II pinup cards featuring Betty Grable, Gene Tierney, Ava Gardner, and Dolores Moran

image from skylighters.org

Another unexpected result was the scarcity of new girdles - the rubber used to manufacture them went to the war effort. Stockings were originally made of silk, then nylon.  After both became prohibited, a new industry emerged: leg make-up.  Ladies would rub this on their legs then draw a line up the back, usually with an eyebrow pencil, to simulate stockings.  The shortage of stockings in turn increased the popularity of pants for women.

Home sewing was heavily encouraged and pattern companies' business soared.  Hollywood patterns with a star in the upper left corner indicate they were produced during the war years and therefore complied with L-85.

Patterns from the war years frequently show collarless dresses, plain blouses with no or very little pin-tucking or ruffles, dresses with a band rather a belt (this saved a metal buckle), embroidered trim, and short or three-quarter length sleeves.  Interestingly, millinery was not under ration regulations.  Most women took full advantage of this accessory.  Hats were designed in all styles and shapes.  Many sewing patterns for hats were also produced during the war years.

After the end of fighting in 1945, women chafed at wardrobe restrictions and information suggests the order was not strictly enforced.

On October 21, 1946, Order L-85 was formally revoked.

Many thanks to Sherri from sewbettyanddot for doing the collage of these 1940s patterns from the Pattern Patter Team on etsy.

by kinseysue on etsy

Sources and Reference Material:

The United States in War & Peace, Shelby L. Stanton (BlitzkreigBaby)

Library of Congress

Old Magazine Articles.com

The Impact of World War II on Women's Fashion in the United States and Britain by Meghann Mason

Fashion Design Trends of the 1940s
Ferragamo Museum
iwm.org.uk
www.ecouterre.com
Inwood Herald, April 19, 1945

1940s patterns from Pattern Patter Team-----those with longer skirts are post-war patterns

Row One - McCall 1294 from Fragolina; Hollywood 1003 from SoVintageOnEtsy

Row Two - McCall 1075 from allthepreciousthings, Simplicity 2026 from PeoplePackages; Hollywood 1322 from WEAREVINTAGESEWING

Row Three - New York 1617 from RomasMaison; Simplicity 2014 from sydcam123; Simplicity 4295 from PengyPatterns

Row Four - McCall 6791 from KeepsakesStudio; Mail Order 2142 from FloradoraPresents; McCall 6361 from GreyDogVintage

Row Five - Butterick 4649 from BlueTreeSewingStudion; Simplicity 1199 from LagunaLane; Simplicity 3779 from Clutterina

Row Six - Simplicity 3322 from sewbettyanddot; Vogue 9630 from PurplePlaidPenguin; McCall 6794 from FriskyScissors

Row Seven - Vogue 6357 from TabbysVintageShop; Hollywood 583 from PrettyPatternShop; Simplicity 1238 from RedcurlzsPatterns;

Row Eight - Simplicity 4754 from kinseysue (envelope is stamped that pattern does not conform to Canadian fabric restrictions.)

Row Nine - Butterick 4494 from FoxVintageUK

Tips for Dating Patterns: Zip Codes

By Ellen of KinseySue

When are antique/collectible dealers also historians? Daily! As caretakers of items from our past, we strive to provide customers with as much information as possible. Dating an object is important. I'm sure many members of the Pattern Patter Team are also vintage sellers/collectors. Knowing a bit of history helps us date an object.

For instance, Susie Seller has a Simplicity pattern listed which she describes as from the 70s. However, the last line of the address on the sleeve reads: New York 14, NY. Her pattern can not be from the 70s. Zip codes arrived in 1963. Before that, zones were used from 1943 to 1963. They were instituted during WWII because so many mail clerks had been drafted and zones made it easier for the new, inexperienced clerks to sort mail.

When Simplicity stopped placing the copyright date on the inside of their directions sheet, there was a gap of a few years before they started putting it on the pattern sleeve. They used a zone in their address. Since Susie Seller's pattern has no date on the directions, it is likely from the late 50s to early 60s, or nearly 20 years older than she thought.

Zip Codes = 1963 and later

Of course we rely on the design of the dress or whatever, as well as hairstyles, to help us date a pattern. Mail order patterns are more difficult to date: many don't have the year in the postmark. Knowing a bit about postmarks as well as zip codes can aid us in dating our mail order patterns.

Postmarks

Over the decades U.S. Postmarks have gone through many changes. Most are round, some are oval. The combination of letters and numbers hold the clue to the approximate date. I use Cemetarian’s Dating Guide to help me date my Mail Order patterns. She sells a PDF, "Dating Sewing Patterns" for $9.95 that covers all of the major pattern companies as well as mail order postmarks. 

As we beat the bushes for patterns, we come across other interesting items. Some dating information helps us decide if an object is as old as we think. A good rule to remember as we search: just because something is old does not make it valuable!

Items marked OCCUPIED JAPAN date from 1945 - 1952. I've seen buttons on the original card marked OJ. However, most OJ items are glassware, although I once sold a hanging wooden clothes dryer stamped Occupied Japan. I've also sold linens with a paper label which read MADE IN OCCUPIED JAPAN as well as sewing notions such as a tracing wheel and some sewing baskets.  

Items marked US ZONE GERMANY, BRITISH ZONE GERMANY, AND FRENCH ZONE GERMANY date from 1945 - 1950.  The buttons below are not marked - only the card.

Glassware/porcelain was the most predominantly exported item from the German Zones. These are the years Poland exported many of their collectible Christmas ornaments. After WWII, border changes left a number of German glass factories in Poland.

As Czechoslovakia ceased to be one country in 1993, glass/porcelain from there is desirable, particularly colorful Art Deco designs. Vintage jewelry is sometimes marked Czechoslovakia. NOTE - During the 1920s, Czecho-slovakia was spelled with a hyphen.

Items made during the 60s and 70s are increasingly popular so the following trivia may help someone~~

BRITISH HONG KONG was used from the 1950s - 60s. I've frequently found this tag on vintage clothing and purses.

HONG KONG was used from the 1970s - 90s.

Patent dates are useful in dating items. There are numerous charts on the net which list the year and the patent numbers associated with it. I refer to the following - it's easier on my vintage eyes:

www.oldstuffonly.com/patent_dates.asp

There are many other ways to date our treasures but I've found the above information to be the most helpful to me personally. I hope it also helps my Pattern Patter colleagues.