Focus On: Vogue Special Design: The 1940s

Vogue's "Special Design" line was introduced in the 1930s.  These patterns were supposed to be a bit more complicated than your average sewing pattern.  They often featured unusual fashion-forward details from the very hottest new trends of the time.  Special Design patterns included a classy sew-in label to make your couture work of art your very own!  "Homemade" didn't have to mean thrifty or average with a Vogue pattern.

These patterns are phenomenally popular with collectors and stitchers worldwide, and I thought I might share some of the lovely Special Design patterns available now from the Pattern Patter Team.

There are so many of them out there... how about we simply focus on the 1940s today? :)  No particular reason, I just like them!

Vogue S-4648

From Sue's Upcycled N Vintage comes Vogue S-4648, currently on sale!  Check out those interesting seams, neckline, and bows!  Also note the somewhat hefty price of $1.00 in 1948 dollars, quite a bit when a regular pattern cost around 35 cents!  This added expense is part of what makes these patterns so rare and collectible today.

Vogue S-4977

From Redcurlz's Patterns is another 1940s pattern, Vogue S-4977.  Curiously, it features similar side bow interest.  Who wouldn't look dramatic in this dress?

Vogue S-4671

More pretty bows!  This pattern from Fragolina has a beautiful neckline and a peplum.. very classy! The back is also very pretty, don't you think?

Vogue S-4454

Asymmetry is a key style point in all of these patterns.  The side-bows in the previous patterns, and the gathers that alternate sides in this amazing number from Selvedge Shop.  I love how the gathers are on the left on the top and on the right on the bottom.  Isn't that unique?  Where else are you going to find anything like that? 

Vogue S-4865

She'll Make You Flip has this great pattern in stock which features a really unusual pocket design.  Super cute for any time of the year... I'm thinking you would look great on a piazza in Italy wearing this one. :)

Vogue S-4841

Drop-dead gorgeous style in this peplum'd glamouriffic dress from Floradora Presents.  

Vogue S-4855

Another pretty peplum is featured in Vogue S-4855, available at Bluetree Sewing Studio.

Vogue S-4531

How about a classy cocktail dress with a jacket?  The contrasting bow and trim on the sleeves is really cute... I bet you could find some shoes with contrast trim, too!  Available at So Vintage On Etsy.

Vogue S-4911

Moving into evening gowns, how about this beautiful gown with deep Vs in both the front and back.. and fullness added into the back as well?  From Sew As It Was Patterns.

Vogue S-4333

I'm totally in love with this unusual evening gown!  The basque bodice, side fullness and back interest are really curious!  One-of-a-kind!  From What Not Gems.

Vogue S-4532

From Fragolina, comes this amazing and RARE wedding gown pattern.  Lots of options for the bride to be... she can have just the dreamy look she wants.

Speaking of weddings, here is another amazing gown from Sew As It Was Patterns.  It features a drop waist and very unusual tiered skirt.

============================================

That's about all for this time!   Which one do you like best?

I'll be back soon with a look at some other eras of Special Design patterns.

The Elegance of Bill Blass

Indiana is not known as a hot bed of fashion yet produced one of the most legendary designers of the 20th century - Bill Blass.  Born in Ft. Wayne, IN, in 1922, he left home at age 17 to attend design school in New York City.  He served three years in the army during World War II. After his time in the armed forces, he joined the fashion house of Anna Miller in New York. When the company merged with Maurice Rentner in 1959, Blass became head designer. He bought the company in 1967, and in 1970, changed its name to Bill Blass, Ltd.

1960s Bill Blass dress for Maurice Rentner

photo from FuzzyLizzieVintageClothing

By this time, Bill Blass was a major designer.  He had become part of a high profile social scene which gave him insight into the way women needed to dress. In the 1980s, he was one of First Lady Nancy Reagan's favorite designers.

red evening gown designed by Bill Blass for First Lady Nancy Reagan in 1981, made of silk, chiffon, and silk taffeta. She wore it at the State Dinner honoring Zenko Suzuki, the Prime Minister of Japan.

photo from fashionwindows.net

First Lady Nancy Reagan in 1988 wearing a Bill Blass suit 

photo from wsj.com

 Candice Bergen in the July 1, 1970, issue of Vogue, wearing a Bill Blass gown

photo by Bert Stern

1970s Jergens ad, fashions by Bill Blass

from pinterest.com

Pink gingham dress and jacket

from Ricky Serbin Haute

A 1980s Bill Blass evening gown

photo from FuzzyLizzieVintageClothing

Dinner suit with feather trim
from MARLENE WETHERELL VINTAGE FASHION

Coat from WILLIAMVINTAGE

1970s Four-Piece silk ensemble: skirt, jacket, belt, peplum

from Thrifted & Modern

Vintage runway sample evening gown with train
from Brent Amerman

1980s Evening blouse and velvet skirt
from 20TH CENTURY COUTURE

Blass designed clothes which gave women a modern sense of both ease and comfort.  He made sportswear but with a twist - glamorizing the clothing with a new American casual chic sensibility.   His women's wear was beautifully cut, tailored and elegant and used luxurious combinations of fabric and texture.  In 1984, he designed Girl Scout uniforms which are highly sought after collectibles in their own right.

from FuzzyLizzieVintageClothing

Bill Blass was one of the first fashion designers to license his designs. Eventually, his brand encompassed fashion and fashion accessories such as eyewear, sheets, towels, jeans and luggage. 

He won seven Coty Awards and the 1999 Fashion Institute of Technology's Lifetime Achievement Award.  At the time of his death, he was involved in the preparation of a retrospective exhibit at Indiana University, Bloomington, IN.  This exhibit opened shortly after his passing in 2002.

by kinseysue on etsy

References: 
Indiana State Museum
Brittanica Online
Vintage Fashion Guild

For those of us who can not afford haute couture, there are lovely Bill Blass sewing patterns available.  Below are some offered by the Pattern Patter team on etsy.

Vogue 2735 from anne8865; Vogue 2643 from Mrsdepew; McCall's 8927 from FancyWork; Vogue 1788 from CloesCloset

Vogue 1957 from KeepsakesStudio; Vogue 2509 from RedcurlzsPatterns; McCall's 8416 from momandpopcultureshop; Vogue 1973 from SoVintageOnEtsy

Vogue 1308 from Denisecraft; McCall's N8753 from MaddieModPatterns; Vogue 1315 from midvalecottage; Vogue 2156 from allthepreciousthings

Vogue 1150 from Clutterina; Vogue 2662 from voguevixens; Vogue 2764 from BluetreeSewingStudio; Vogue 1621 from mbchills