By Sherri of
Sew Betty and Dot
We may not often give too much thought to collars, but the collar in its many forms is an important design element on a garment: when one says "Peter Pan," "sailor," or "Mandarin," we all instantly know what those specific collars look like. And the word "collar" features in several English-language idioms: "blue collar worker"; "hot under the collar"; and in law enforcement terminology, a suspect is "collared" (perhaps derived from the fact that policemen grabbed suspects by the belt and collar).
The history of collars is a bit murky, but it appears that they developed out of the drawstring edge of a chemise, the undergarment that men and women wore for centuries under their outer garments. That ruffled edge developed into ruffs--think Queen Elizabeth I--and then into other forms and shapes.
Until the early twentieth century, men's shirts had detachable collars (and cuffs)--because the body of the shirt was usually hidden under a waistcoat or jacket when the man was out in public, the fact that it hadn't been washed for several weeks wasn't readily apparent; filthy collars and cuffs, however, would be instantly noticed, so clean ones could be substituted much more frequently than the shirt itself was laundered.
Let's take a look at some collars--by no means an exhaustive examination--and observe how they change the look and feel of a garment.
Clockwise from top left:
1. Stand-up collar with horseshoe neckline:
Simplicity 8307
2. Sailor collar:
Butterick 3532
3. Wide notched collar:
McCall's 5251
4. Jabot collar:
Butterick 4658: DejaVu Patterns
Clockwise from top left:
1. Petal collar:
Simplicity 8485
2. Nehru (technically a Mandarin collared jacket, but wanted to show the guys some love!):
McCall's 9484
3. Cape collar:
Advance 8234
4. Ruffled collar on bateau neckline:
Vogue 1355
Clockwise from top left:
1. Peter Pan collar:
McCall's 4162
2. Roll collar:
Advance 3111
3. Ruffled collar on V-neck:
Simplicity 5896
4. Flat collar with ruffle:
Simplicity 4913
Clockwise from top left:
1. Mandarin collar:
Simplicity 6537
2. Sailor collar:
Marian Martin 9442
3. Bow collar (and Mandarin!):
Simplicity 3438
4. Scalloped shawl collar:
Butterick 4558
Clockwise from top left:
1. Dog ear collar:
Simplicity 9691
2. Cowl collar:
Vogue 5558
3. Wing collar:
Butterick 5216
4. Chelsea collar:
Simplicity 3615
Picture yourself in one of these collar styles--which one do
you prefer? Tell us in the comments If your favorite style is not pictured here, tell us about it.
