Necklines Part III

by Mary Beth, RetroMonkeys

The necklines in this post, see the previous posts on necklines Here and Here, are all appropriate for evening wear as well as daytime looks. 

The first neckline is the Sweetheart. The Sweetheart has a  a curved bottom edge that is concave down and usually doubly scalloped to resemble the top half of a heart. Here are a few examples of the versatility of this neckline. Some are very defined and deep some are more subtle. 

                Simplicity 2219                   Vogue 7944                           Simplicity 4321         
             WeAreVintageSewing             CloesCloset                                  Sydcam             


Next is the Décolleté. A low cut V neckline in the case of the example, any revealing cut that accentuates the bust can be considered a décolleté neckline. 

               Vogue 8546                      Modes Royale 965                   Simplicity 6563
              DesignRewind                  RebeccasVintageSalon                EmSewCrazy

The Plunging Neckline is rarely seen except in evening gowns. A popular choice on the red carpet. The neckline usually extends below the bust line sometimes as low as the navel. 

                                            Vogue 1030 Badgely Mischka              Vogue 7630
                                              PeoplePackages                  ShellMakeYouFlip


Strapless tops and dresses have been a favorite over the decades. From formal dresses to a corset or bustier with jeans, the strapless bodice is timeless.

       Vogue Couturier 1113               McCall's 2304                       Simplicity 4272

            SoVintageOnEtsy                        ComeSeeComeSew                       BethTheBookLady

The first thing that enters my mind when I think of Off the Shoulder is Olivia Newton John in Grease. Of course her look in the movie is just one example of the off-shoulder neckline. 

                       McCall 7919                                  Simplicity 5289                     Butterick 8152

                SweetSorotVeasman                              RetroMonkeys                  PinkPolkaDotButton

Halters are a great summer style as well as an evening favorite. Comfortable and sexy with most having a bare back. 

               McCall's 8870                                  Simplicity 3081                         Simplicity 5349

              OmasBricaBrac                              PinkPolkaDotButton                      CloesCloset

That's it for now, Next time - Surplice, One Shoulder, Camisole, Funnel, and Gathered. 

Focus On: Scarves

By Sherri from sewbettyanddot


The snow is snowing, the wind is blowing
But I can weather the storm!
What do I care how much it may storm?
I've got my love to keep me warm.

I can't remember a worse December
Just watch those icicles form!
What do I care if icicles form?
I've got my love to keep me warm.

"I've Got My Love to Keep Me Warm" (Irving Berlin)

Even if you have love to keep you warm, you still might want to don a scarf. And even if you don't need to be warm, you might want to wear one as a fashion accessory!

As practical garments, scarves have their origin in ancient Rome, where they were often a cloth strip tied around the neck and used to wipe sweat or food from the face (ewww!). Originally worn by men, scarves were soon adopted by women--and they've been in fashion, in one form or another, ever since. Throughout history, scarves have had many purposes--as head coverings (for cleanliness, for instance, in a dusty climate, or for modesty); as indicators of rank (Chinese warriors could be identified by the color and material of their scarves), or, of course, to cover the neck and chest for warmth. In the twentieth century, iconic scarf wearers included Isadora Duncan, Audrey Hepburn [couldn't find a photo that I could use here, but we all know what Audrey looks like!], and Dr. Who.

Left: Isadora  Duncan; Right: Fourth Doctor (Dr. Who). Both images from Wikipedia

Of course, many scarves have very little practical purpose. Printed scarves tied around the neck or fastened with brooches reached their pinnacle as accessories in the 1960s and 1970s (think Vera's lovely prints, or the coveted Hermes scarf, for example).

Let's have a look at some vintage scarf patterns from the Pattern Patter team. In some cases, you could have that scarf built in to the dress itself...no chance of losing it! (This post is only looking at scarves worn around the neck, not headscarves.)  As always, please click on the images to enlarge them.

Top row, left to right: Advance 2995: Sandritocat;
Butterick 4680: PrettyPatternShop

Butterick 5593: MaddieModPatterns

Middle row: Prominent Designer (Leslie Fay) Mail Order A867: Erikawithak

McCall’s 2255: GreyDogVintage

McCall’s 2515: paneenjerez

Bottom row: McCall’s 2828: PurplePlaidPenguin

McCall’s 3865: anne8865

McCall’s 6216: DesignRewindFashions

Top row, left to right: McCall’s 6681: Denisecraft

McCall’s 9754: RetroMonkeys

Simplicity 1412: sewbettyanddot

Middle row: Simplicity 1711: shellmakeyouflip

Simplicity 1956: ViennasGrace

Simplicity 4981: CloesCloset

Bottom row: Simplicity 5125: Sydcam123

Simplicity 6152: AdeleBeeAnnPatterns

Simplicity 4178: BluetreeSewingStudio

Top row, left to right: Simplicity 5184: patternshop

Simplicity 6677: PeoplePackages

Vogue 8195: RomasMaison

Vogue 7845: ThePatternShopp

If you were going to tie one on, which of these beauties would YOU choose? Tell us in the comments!

Focus On: Collars

By Sherri of Sew Betty and Dot

We may not often give too much thought to collars, but the collar in its many forms is an important design element on a garment: when one says "Peter Pan," "sailor," or "Mandarin," we all instantly know what those specific collars look like. And the word "collar" features in several English-language idioms: "blue collar worker"; "hot under the collar"; and in law enforcement terminology, a suspect is "collared" (perhaps derived from the fact that policemen grabbed suspects by the belt and collar).

The history of collars is a bit murky, but it appears that they developed out of the drawstring edge of a chemise, the undergarment that men and women wore for centuries under their outer garments. That ruffled edge developed into ruffs--think Queen Elizabeth I--and then into other forms and shapes.

Until the early twentieth century, men's shirts had detachable collars (and cuffs)--because the body of the shirt was usually hidden under a waistcoat or jacket when the man was out in public, the fact that it hadn't been washed for several weeks wasn't readily apparent; filthy collars and cuffs, however, would be instantly noticed, so clean ones could be substituted much more frequently than the shirt itself was laundered.

Let's take a look at some collars--by no means an exhaustive examination--and observe how they change the look and feel of a garment.

 Clockwise from top left:
1. Stand-up collar with horseshoe neckline: Simplicity 8307
2. Sailor collar: Butterick 3532
3. Wide notched collar: McCall's 5251
4. Jabot collar: Butterick 4658: DejaVu Patterns

Clockwise from top left:
1. Petal collar:  Simplicity 8485
2. Nehru (technically a Mandarin collared jacket, but wanted to show the guys some love!): McCall's 9484
3. Cape collar: Advance 8234
4. Ruffled collar on bateau neckline: Vogue 1355

 Clockwise from top left:
1. Peter Pan collar: McCall's 4162
2. Roll collar: Advance 3111
3. Ruffled collar on V-neck: Simplicity 5896
4. Flat collar with ruffle: Simplicity 4913

Clockwise from top left: 
1. Mandarin collar: Simplicity 6537
2. Sailor collar: Marian Martin 9442
3. Bow collar (and Mandarin!): Simplicity 3438
4. Scalloped shawl collar: Butterick 4558

 Clockwise from top left:
1. Dog ear collar: Simplicity 9691
2. Cowl collar:  Vogue 5558
3. Wing collar: Butterick 5216
4. Chelsea collar: Simplicity 3615

Picture yourself in one of these collar styles--which one do you prefer? Tell us in the comments If your favorite style is not pictured here, tell us about it.

June Trends Alert

by Amy of ViennasGrace

Gucci spring/summer 2013

Elie Saab did it and so did Ralph Lauren, a big summer fashion trend that is showing up from ready to wear to high end fashion, ruffles. Sometimes as a dramatic flounce flowing down a caftan, an asymmetric jabot placed perfectly on a one shoulder blouse, or feminine ruffles spinning around a soft tiered floral skirt.

Ralph Lauren spring/summer 2013

We see the changes in the use of ruffles throughout the decades in our sewing patterns. In the 1940s an 

off the shoulder blouse or sundress frequently had a single or double ruffled neckline. Late 50s and early 60s used ruffles more as a trim, showing up on collars or finishing off hem lines. The 70s disco scene had a great look, using soft cascading waves down the front of a wrap dress. Let’s not forget the 1980s use of ruffles, blouses adorned with high neck jabots and the multi tiered skirts seen on numerous prom dresses and bridal gowns.

Top row CherryCorners Butterick 3511, AdeleBeeAnnPatterns Butterick 4801, CloesCloset Vogue 2218, retromonkeys Simplicity 1628

Bottom row Vogue 6403, allthepresiousthings Vogue 6229, RomasMaison McCall's 4269, DesignRewindFashions Vogue 9667

So as the peak of summer is nearly here, keep the fashion savvy seamstress in mind. She won’t be shopping in the high dollar designer stores, She will be hunting for the latest summer trends in all our lovely vintage patterns. Use your listing descriptions and tags creatively so she can easily find that special blouse with rows of ruffles and that perfect glamorous party dress with a flounce.

Princess Seams Refresher

by Anne from AnnesVintagePatterns

Ava loves everything Princess. My great-niece has seen all the Princess movies, loves books with Princess stories, and she has a wardrobe of Princess attire to rival Kate’s.  Oh, and did I mention she is 5 years old?  When she is older and begins learning to sew (plan afoot to encourage and help with this activity),  I’ll bet she won’t have a clue what it means when she sees a pattern describing princess seams.

Listing

Princess seams are long, shaped seams sewn into clothing to add contouring or to tailor the fit to closely follow a woman's figure.  The princess seam style of dress needs no waistline, since it does its shaping without darts, by joining edges of different curvature.  The resulting princess seams typically goes from the shoulder (or under the arm) and curves gently over the bust point and down to the lower hem.  When princess seams are used on the front of a garment, they run over the line of the bust to create an even, smooth look.  This creates a slimming look, often seen in dresses with an A-line silhouette.  Many form fitting garments, such as formal gowns, are made with this type of seaming.  On slender women, princess seams can be used to highlight the figure and provide the illusion of curves. Princess seams emphasize a thin waist for women with hourglass figures.  Princess seams can be adjusted for fluffier women like me to fit an ample bosom and hips.

Here are some PatternPatter team members’ patterns featuring princess seams.

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Do you enjoy sewing with princess seams?

The Walk Away Dress and Its Descendents

By PrettyPatternShop

America after World War II was the land of Peace and Prosperity. It was a time of optimism and celebration. The drudgery of rationing, the misery of the Great Depression, these things were all fading memories and we lived in a land of atomic energy where anything was possible. We no longer wanted to be stuck slaving at our tasks just to provide the basic necessities. And women didn’t want to spend hours over their sewing, not when there were so many other things to do!

And so began the new era of easy to make, easy to wear, easy on the eye fashion. One of the most memorable and notable styles to emerge from that time was the Walk Away Dress, released by Butterick in 1952. “Cut it out at 9:00, wear it out at noon,” was the slogan. In other words, a project you could walk away from three hours later with a seriously cute finished dress.

It was enormously popular and saw a second printing:

source

And let’s not forget its cousins:

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The clever wraparound style would endure for decades, changing very little in basic construction,

60s Version source

70s Wrap Around Style

Gertie's Post on the Modern Version

And then the Walk Away was rereleased in 2006 as part of Butterick’s Retro line:

source

This dress endures in popularity, inspiring sew-alongs, tutorials and reviews.

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Make it quick, make it easy, make it cute!